More than two years ago I met bunch of Scottish football fans when they were visiting for football game Serbia vs. Scotland, it was a part of the qualifying rounds for World Cup in Brazil, bottom line was, that none of the teams made it to Brazil, but that is not the issue here. Key point was that they were a bunch of really cool guys enjoying supporting their team and even more enjoying traveling.

For us from Balkans it’s totally unusual to experience that you can support your team without breaking something or causing an incident in international level, it’s just amazing to see Scots cheering their team. It’s no wonder there are guys from Bosnia and Bulgaria who are members of the Tartan Army, wearing kilts, singing Scottish songs and all.

On occasion they travel for different games not connected to their national team, just for fun, and that was the situation with this April weekend in Sarajevo where game FK Sarajevo vs. NK Široki Brijeg was playing. Organizer of the gathering was our Bosnian friend, so we just needed to get ourselves there. Most of the gang members (as we call ourselves) flew in from UK, while Bulgarian guy and I made different arrangement. Initially we planned to go directly to Sarajevo by car, just two of us, he would pick me up in Belgrade on his way from Sofia and then we would continue together to Sarajevo, but somewhere on the way plan was changed and turned to Sofia-Belgrade-Mostar-Sarajevo trip.
I have that luck of frequent travelling through Balkans, so my role was to drive through curvy Bosnian roads, navigate directions and pick places where we could stop for meals. Tough job! I was picked up on a Friday morning in Belgrade and we continued to Bosnia in the direction of Zvornik, where we’ll cross Drina River and enter Republic of Srpska in Bosnia. Drive from Belgrade to Mali Zvornik, where is border-crossing on Serbian side, is not to interesting, so I won’t be spending pixels on that. The only thing might be worth of mentioning is part near Drina river, where Robert De Niro spent few days back in the sixties when he was travelling Balkans as a student, he was so fascinated with beauty of the area that he named his adopted daughter Drina.

Bosnia

After a border-crossing procedure which is rather simple and quick we were driving on the Drina bank and enjoying the beauty of spring awaking the nature after long winter. After the road sets off from the river it continues up to the mountains and there is a constant ascent for some 80km up to Romanija Mountain, but you won’t feel it that much, because the climb is not too sudden, with just few exceptions. One thing is certain, you’ll enjoy the view.

The biggest prize is when you reach the plateau of Romanija where sites are spectacular, sheep running around, scenery changes between forests and meadows with water everywhere. It was just right time for lunch when we reached Podromanija(bellow Romanija) and randomly picked up a place aside of the road, the name is „Kod kuma“. Food was perfect, even now I can remember the taste of teletina ispod sača (beef baked in clay pot) which was probably best teletina ispod sača I ever tasted. If you are passing through this area make a stop here, at least for a cup of espresso which was surprisingly good.

This portion of the road from Serbian border to Sarajevo takes through Milići, Vlasenica, Han Pijeska,Sokolac, Mokro and then road joins main road Pale-Sarajevo, condition of the road is quite good, but in terms of driving it’s a bit demanding, especially if you are not used to drive in curvy mountain roads. Traffic is not to heavy, but you’ll be taking over few big trucks. Pay attention how many different Golf and VW cars you’ll see on the way, Bosnia is a real VW museum in the open, there are still Golf MKI running here, and some of those are in good condition, but Golf MKII is a most appreciated car, definitely. Compensation for long drive are spectacular views which will open after each curve you pass. If you are not on the run, take any opportunity you have to make short stops for enjoying the nature and sights.
Since we were not planning to stop in Sarajevo, we were driving through directly to Mostar, but for those who are expecting to find some ring road or a transit road to avoid Sarajevo traffic, I must disappoint them, there is no such a thing as a ring road around Sarajevo, you’ll need to drive right through the city centre in order to exit to the other side in the direction of Mostar, so you’ll be facing heavy traffic, especially if you reach the city in the afternoon rush hour, as we did. Calculate that you’ll need at least an hour time to make it to the other side, in the meanwhile you can enjoy vibrant streets of Sarajevo. When you finally reach west part of the city you can choose two ways of continuing the trip, one is to take standard road, or to take a newly built highway, but have in mind that this new highway has only 15km long section which is finished, so after that section you’ll be again driving on the regular road, but nevertheless, the drive on the brand new road is nice, and the quality of the road is excellent. Toll for this section is 2,5KM. Anyway driving on regular road is more fun, because you can enjoy the beauty of landscape when you drive to Hercegovina, and when you reach the valley of river Neretva, you’ll be stopping at each possible spot to admire the nature. Unfortunately on our trip from Sarajevo to Mostar, there was constant rain, so we left photo stops for our way back. When we reached Mostar in the early evening first thing we did was to find our accommodation, which was Villa Hum, located some 500m from the old town. Rooms are perfectly clean and comfortable, with more than adequate equipment. Parking space was fine and secured, but to be honest in town like Mostar, you can park your car anywhere and nothing will happen to it, but if secured parking will help you sleep better, then you should look for accommodation with parking. Our host at Villa Hum was maybe a bit too welcoming, because he was so persistent to make us feel welcomed, that at some points we were bit annoyed, but that was the only small downside of the place, everything else deserves recommendation. Price range of the accommodation is very low, so you get excellent value for money rate.
When you reach Mostar and enter its streets, you’ll be surprised with war traces everywhere, those are still very visible, many ruined, burned and damaged buildings are spread around, which will definitely put you down for a moment, but don’t let yourself be discouraged, you are in a wonderful place which survived many ill times, so be prepared for some great moments of beauty.

After check-in we hurried to make few night photos of Mostar and to meet a friend from Austria. We had a “light” dinner together and then we returned to villa in order to get some rest after a long day. Tomorrow we had even more ambitious day.

Luckily in the morning of the following day it was a perfect weather for wondering around Mostar area and for a drive to Sarajevo.

After “power sightseeing” of morning Mostar we packed our things and drove to Vrelo Bune, a source of river Buna, which is a really breath-taking place. It’s only 15km from Mostar and very easy to reach. With so much water everywhere you’ll feel refreshed even on a hottest day. If you are here visit Dervish Tekke (Dervish monastery) which is built on a rock at the very source. For those looking for food go for trout in one of few restaurants located around fast-flowing water.

After Buna River we turned back and got on the road to Sarajevo, but this time with perfect weather. This road is spectacular! On one side you have emerald green water of Neretva River, and on the other you have high mountain peaks which were covered with snow. Road condition is very good so you can drive relaxed without worrying about hitting some pothole and you can focus on enjoying drive in such immaculate scenery. In some two hours we reached Sarajevo and our party with Scottish gang could start!
But first we needed to check-in to our hotel, and it was iconic Holliday Inn, built for 1984 Sarajevo Olympic Games. It is called Holliday nowadays because it has lost the franchise, but nevertheless, it still looks quite impressive even though its décor is outdated and looked 1984-ish. Of course, it was slightly redecorated after the war, but the spirit of the ‘80s still leaves in this mighty building.

Rate we got, thanks to our Sarajevo friend, was pretty good, we paid some 120KM (~60€) for bed and breakfast in double room. Of course, personnel of the hotel weren’t too quick and efficient, but hey, who cares, we were in Sarajevo, city of long history, great people and wonderful spirit.
So, when we placed our stuff in the room, we went out to look for our fellow gang members and we found them in Tito’s bar in the vicinity, eating ćevapčići and drinking beer. At that moment we found out that football game was switched from Saturday to Sunday, so unfortunately Bulgarian friend and I couldn’t make it, because we were leaving on Sunday. Ok, so it leaves more time for wondering the city with dinner at Baščaršija, and pivnica (beer cellar) after.

Ok, so Sunday eventually came and I was eager to see how the breakfast looks like in this legendary hotel. Aside of the fact that the breakfast room was outdated and furniture looked dodgy as well, food was quite nice with lots of choices. Coffee though was not that good. Maybe the nicest touch, at least for me, because it brought some memories from childhood, where plates with old Sarajevo Olympic games logo on it, retro but cool.

After the breakfast we gathered and went out for a short sightseeing of Sarajevo city centre, with our Sarajevo friend as our guide, he was quite good, I must admit, it’s a pity he wouldn’t do it for a living 
So the moment for saying goodbye came and after less than 24 hours we were on the road again, this time we were on our way to Belgrade. We made some photos together as a gang once again in front of the hotel, to have a memory and started our engine.

The same road just opposite way and a bit more pleasant weather then two days ago when we were travelling in direction of Sarajevo. With five hours long drive to Belgrade in front of us we needed a lunch break on the way, so we stopped in one random tavern for roasted lamb in Romanija Mountain. You can’t make mistake with lamb when you are here, perfect nature gives perfect roast.

Finally in the evening we reached Belgrade and it was time to say goodbye, my Bulgarian friends continued to Niš for overnight and then to Sofia, and me, I reached home after three days of driving in Bosnian and Hercegovina roads, spending great time with great people.
And finally some statistics:
Total distance for Belgrade-Mostar-Sarajevo-Belgrade trip: 863km
Total time spent in the car: 17h
Average speed: 53km/h
Two lunches and two dinners in proper places + one burek meal
Beers and wine drank:xyz
Zero flat tires
Countless smiles